Color Hub 9, 8, 5, 4 and 1 for ACE PRO

V3 Version with Kobra 3, S1 and MAX support available now

9 port V3 Version available here

https://www.makeronline.com/en/model/9%20port%20color%20hub%20for%20kobra%203%20with%20twist%20mount%20and%20locking%20tab%20V3/155209.html

8 port V3 Version available here

https://www.makeronline.com/en/model/8%20port%20color%20hub%20for%20kobra%203%20with%20twist%20mount%20and%20locking%20tab%20V3/155208.html

5 port V3 Version available here

https://www.makeronline.com/en/model/5%20port%20color%20hub%20for%20kobra%203%20with%20twist%20mount%20and%20locking%20tab%20V3/155207.html

4 port V3 Version available here

https://www.makeronline.com/en/model/4%20port%20color%20hub%20for%20kobra%203%20with%20twist%20mount%20and%20locking%20tab%20V3/155206.html

1 port V3 Version available here

https://www.makeronline.com/en/model/1%20port%20color%20hub%20for%20kobra%203%20with%20twist%20mount%20and%20locking%20tab%20V3/155205.html

9, 8, 5, 4 and 1 color ACE PRO HUB with twist lock mount for easy cleaning and changing without screws or clips.

There have been many ACE PRO hub designs but this is the best.

This design uses simple ECAS04 PTFE tube Collets available many places for cheap. Amazon or Aliexpress

The filament goes straight in all the way to the extruder. No bending or scraping the inside of the hub.

By pressing the top of the ECAS the PTFE tube is released. No springs or complex collets to fuss with.

No place for the filament to break off and hide. Simply disconnect the hub and push out any filament inside the hub.

Twist the hub and it comes off for easy cleaning or changing to different hub configuration without disconnecting the PTFE tubes.

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PTFE is inserted deeper into the hub for less restrictions during color swaps.

1. You no longer have to get out a screwdriver to remove the hub to clear out any broken or clogged filament.
2. No more dropping blue clips that hold the PTFE tubes in place.
3. No more searching for 12mm springs. This hub has no springs.
4. No more searching for Anycubic compatible collets. These standard collets are easily available across the world.
5. No more taking Anycubic hubs apart to salvage the parts.
6. To switch from External Spool and 8 Color Hub requires a simple twist of the hub. No clips or screwdrivers.
7. The optional 4 color hub is better than the factory hub. Straight through filament path.
8. The optional 5 color hub should have been what Anycubic shipped with the K3C. Still straight through filament path.
9. Filament paths are all straight through. No bends or kinks to catch or wear through the hub.

I include a simple test jig to validate your 3D printer hole sizes before you waste time trying to print a precise hub.

Print out the HubTestJig and measure the holes smallest to largest. 2.75, 4.3 and 8.37mm. These are the important holes in the hubs.

If you can not print this jig pretty close to those sizes you will not print a good hub or any items that depend on accurate prints.

There are adjustments in the slicer under "Quality" X-Y hole compensation to adjust your printer for good hole sizes.

The included .3mf should have all the printing information required to print the hubs.

I printed with 0.2mm layer height with no problem.

After you print the jig and tuned your slicer to print quality holes, print the HUBMOUNT.

This bolts onto the top of the extruder to replace the existing hub. 2 screws is all you need.

Next you print the hub(s) of choice. I have generated 9, 8, 5, 4 and 1 port hubs.

The 1 port is for the external spool.

The 4 port replaces the Anycubic hub which can't easily be cleaned without unscrewing the hub.

The 5 port, same as the 4 port but also gives you a port for the the external spool.

The 8 port can connect up to 2 ACE PROs with easy access to clean the hub should the filament break.

The 8 port can easily be removed and the 1 port attached to use the external spool without disconnecting any PTFE tubes to the ACE PRO.

The 9 port can connect up to 2 ACE PROs with easy access to clean the hub should the filament break but also has a port for the external spool when you need it.

Once you print the 2 pieces slip them together and twist them until the outside edges line up.

The first time may take a little effort as the edges are not very clean. Make sure your twisting the right way. Pliers may be required once.

Press in a PTFE tube into the top of the hub to makes sure it goes in smoothly. If its too tight you didn't adjust your holes sizes properly.

Remove the rubber seal at the bottom from the ECAS connectors before inserting. Now you may press in the ECAS connectors in until flush.

The rubber seals are for waterproofing which we don't need.

The ECAS should pop when inserted but not loose as you don't want them coming back out.

Then press in the blue tops which are the tube releases.

Once the ECAS are in test that the PTFE tube goes in and pressing the blue tops of the ECAS and the tubes should easily come out.

You should now be able to install all the PTFE tubes and start printing.

I recommend you run the PTFE tubes up over the top of the printer. See the model below. It keeps the tubes out of the way since the ACE tubes come from the back.

5 port Upper Comb

https://www.makeronline.com/en/model/PTFE%20Comb%20for%20single%20ACE%20unit%20and%20includes%20a%20Z%20Idler%20option/112502.html

9 port Upper Comb

https://www.makeronline.com/en/model/PTFE%20Comb%20for%20single%20or%20dual%20ACE%20units%20and%20includes%20a%20Z%20Idler%20option/46694.html

If you have any suggestions or concerns, please message me.