ACE Pro Time Saver

ACE Pro Return Detection Module (RDM) relocator for Print Time Saving & Tool-Free ACE Pro unloading

Three Problems with ACE Pro setup

• With the four long (85+ cm) Teflon tubes for ACE Pro hanging at the back of my S1 printer, I felt it takes forever to feed a filament. While waiting for Anycubic's own speed improvement, I decided to reduce the length of the tubes by relocating the RDM module to the external spool attachment spot at the back of my S1 printer. 
• Those long Teflon tubes connected to the ACE Pro Buffer make noise during printing as the tubes are tilted to go downward.
• When you need to unmount ACE Pro, I found it is troublesome to unscrew either the RDM unit or the 4-to-1 hub. I even need to turn my printer around to do so. I needed to find a way to eliminate the trouble.

Highlights

• Time Saving for Filament loading & Unloading: with 50% less tube length, I think it now takes a reasonable time to load, unload, or swap filament at this time. This is even helpful when you have to manually pull out filament as it is much shorter in the path. Note I don't have the exact time measured for time saving, as there are many factors in measuring time savings such as inconsistent time estimates in Anycubic Slicer Next. I don't want to falsely advertise. 
• Tool-Free Filament Hub Holder: Two Benefits - This design allows tool-free removal of the 4-to-1 hub. If you use my popular S1C Flip Riser here and this model together, unloading ACE Pro from a S1 printer is completely tool-free. You just need to pull out the printed pins from this bracket. It also eliminates stress on the screw connection between the filament hub and a RDM unit.
• Angled RDM Bracket: The angled design reduces bending stress on shortened tubes and helps ACE Pro buffer movement. 
• ACE Pro Buffer Noise Reduction: Now that this configuration prevents the Teflon tubes from bending down, it helps reduce/eliminate the noise from the buffer and tube movement while printing.
• No setting change: This does not require any printer or slicer settings you already have.

• 6/26/2025: My new y-splitter is available here. This model allows smoother feeding from ACE pro.
• 7/24/2025: To address a potential problem of clogging inside the Anycubic 4-in-1 adapter, I added a new print profile to use Bambu 4-in-1 adapter with this model. Check out additional model photos. As shown in one of the photos, you will need a 15mm cut of Teflon tube that should be inserted into the hub. That should fit into the RDM module when you place the 4-in-1 adapter.

Printing Suggestion

• PLA will work well for this model.
• My 3mf print profile is provided with the print setting I tested.

Hardware for Assembly

• M2 10 mm (or 12 mm) button head screw x 2 - hub holder joint
• M3 10 mm button head screw x 2 - hub holder to bracket   
• M3 10 mm button head screw x 2 - bracket to printer 
• The original M2 25 mm hex head screw x 2 - RDM to bracket 

Assembly Guide 

Check out the assembly photos in model photos

• Prepare PTFE tubings - remove all the original PTFE tubings from ACE Pro and 4-to-1 hub. I cut two of them into four half-size (approx. 40 cm) ones.  
• Gently break the hinge of print-in-place parts after fully cooling down. Then drive M2 screws gently to connect the joint. Do not use an automatic screwdriver, it won't take much time. Tip: I recommend cleaning up the m2 screw holes by driving a 1/16 inch (1.58mm) drill bit into the hole from the outside, which helped me insert M2 screws with less force. 
• Attach the hub holder to the main bracket using M3 screws from the underside. 
• Attach round spacers to the back of the bracket, the top side with a 0.2 mm bump around the hole will fit into the back of the bracket. 
• Attach the assembled bracket to the back of your S1 printer spool holder holes using M3 screws. 
• Now, add the return detection module to the bracket using stock m2 screws.  
• Prepare additional 10 ~ 13cm PTFE tube and connect between the RDM and a y-splitter.
• Insert the half-cut PTFE tubes into the back of the hub, place it inside the hub holder, and close the lid. Gently insert hold pins into the holes on top to complete. 

• Hold Pins - there are two sets of hold pins with "S" (Snug fit) and "L" (Loose fit). They don't mean large or small ;-). Choose the set that works for your case. Because of the way the hub holder is printed, the pin will go better into the hole when its head faces sideways.

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Thanks for your interest, hope this save your daily 3D printing time.

Your make photos, comments and feedbacks are always welcome!

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